In May 1999, the people of San Cayetano left their town. They did not leave because the harvest failed or because the road closed. They left because the ground beneath their houses was moving.
The warning signs had been there for years: cracks in the walls, broken pipes, streets that no longer lined up. A mass of earth — reported at 22 million cubic meters — was moving under the town. On 13 May 1999, with the Virgen del Chinga at the front of the procession, 220 families were evacuated. The town they left behind is still there, lower down the mountain, slowly disappearing under vegetation.
Part one of this series ended in the new San Cayetano. This is the motorcycle ride to the old one.
Read part one: The Perfect Beginner Motorcycle Route: Riding to San Cayetano
Route at a glance
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| Ride date | November 1, 2026 |
| Start | Zipaquirá |
| Route | Zipaquirá → Cogua → Alto de Margaritas → Boca de Monte → La Peña → Las Mercedes → San Cayetano Viejo |
| Trail type | Out and back |
| Distance | 129 km |
| Riding time | 4h 45m |
| Difficulty | Easy (Wikiloc) |
| Elevation gain | 2,973 m |
| Elevation loss | 2,973 m |
| Max elevation | 3,670 m |
| Min elevation | 2,148 m |
Route stats: Wikiloc — Zipaquira - San Cayetano Viejo.
The other way in
On the first ride I entered through La Empalizada, off the Zipaquirá–Pacho road. This time I took the Cogua–San Cayetano road. The difference is immediate: the route climbs past the Embalse del Neusa, and the reservoir view is one of the best of the day. The paved road was in good condition, although some corners demanded caution, at least for someone new to motorcycling.
Alto de Margaritas and Boca de Monte
The climb continues toward Alto de Margaritas and Boca de Monte, gaining height until the route reaches 3,670 m. This is the cold part of the day: páramo, wind, and a road that keeps asking for patience. The route could be considered easy — there is nothing extremely technical — but the altitude and the distance turn it into a long day. Easy is not the same as short.
La Peña and the turn to Las Mercedes
After the high point, the road passes La Peña, the rock formation that marked the final stretch in part one. About 10 minutes before the new San Cayetano, the road forks in a Y. Take the road to the left, toward Las Mercedes. From there, the old town is about 15 minutes away. If you reach the new town, you have gone past the turn.
The views on this stretch are excellent, and the riding is easier than the approach suggests. The descent toward Las Mercedes is where the route changes character: the páramo gives way to warmer air and the old town starts to feel close.
Las Mercedes
Las Mercedes is more than a name on the route. It is where the first temporary shelters were set up after the evacuation, while the new cabecera was being built. Passing through it puts the destination in order: first the place that held the displaced families, then the town they had to leave. The church in the new San Cayetano is a small replica of the one that still stands in the old town.
San Cayetano Viejo
The last kilometers leave the new town behind. San Cayetano Viejo is a ruin site now. The church is the most representative structure still standing; the school, the bakery, and the main park survive as vestiges. Vegetation has been moving in for years, and the site was declared of cultural interest in 2000.
I arrived alone, and the light was already starting to go. The feeling was unsettling, almost creepy. The wild was taking the old ruins back, and some buildings had nothing but darkness inside. No tragedies were reported in connection with this place. Even so, the unease that arose from the abandonment, the silence, and the solitude was palpable. Go early. The same ruins must feel very different in daylight.
The silence
Visiting a place like this is not the same as visiting a viewpoint. The ruins are evidence of a decision made to save lives, and the people who lived here are still around, in the new town. Walk slowly. Do not enter unstable buildings. Do not take anything. The story is the point, not the photo.
The return
The return is basically the same road in reverse, but it is not the same ride. By 6 pm I was heading back. Between San Cayetano Viejo and Las Mercedes, mist was settling over the road. From Las Mercedes to Zipaquirá it was completely dark, and there is little or no lighting on those roads. The páramo section is offroad, and visibility became the real challenge. There were storm clouds, and lightning was visible in the distance. On a motorcycle, that is the last thing you want.
The cold was enough to force a stop: I had to move my fingers because they hurt. The right gear is not optional on this route — layers, winter gloves, rain protection, and a good light. Start early enough to be back before dark.
Before you go
- Start early; the return is where the day gets long.
- Carry gloves, rain gear, and a good light.
- Check the weather, especially for storms over the páramo.
- Fill up in Zipaquirá or Cogua and confirm fuel before the descent.
- Ride in company if you can; the old town is remote and the light goes quickly.
- Ask locally about access to the ruins and respect any restrictions.
- Do not enter unstable structures or remove objects.